How to Build a Speaker Enclosure for Your C3

I suggest
measuring the ”trunk space” prior
to construction to verif fit, variances
may be present amongst
our hand built treasures. Their are two crusial
dimentions.
First, is the depth of the unit. It fits tightly behind the
wheel well humps while allowing for use of luggage strap loops if they
are to remain. Second is the height, which gives you about 1/4
of an inch
of clearance between the unit top and the seam
where the trunk wall and
deck lid are bonded. This gives that
”compression fit” we desire with
no unsightly ”L”
brackets for mounting.

The boxes
were designed for 6×9’s, but 4×10’s or 8 inch rounds should fit
fine.
If new speakers are used, they come with templates. Just
make a center
mark and have at it with a jig saw. you can use
speaker terminals from
radio shack for that finished look.
bass ports can be cut into the inside
peices ”C” with a
hole saw. Radio shack sells black plastic sleeves for
this
purpose. They are a great source for inexpensive speaker componants.
The only snag you may run into was installing the unit whole. I had to
cut it in half along the center line (dotted line).

After
I carpeted the unit I used a
DeWalt cordless circular saw, the small kerfed
blade didn’t
damage the carpet that the unit is covered withor effect
width. Any fine bladed saw should work ie: a plywood blade. I mounted
my fire extinguisher braket, which has four holes, to hold the unit
together.
A flat piece of metal, a carpeted piece of wood, or
an amp should suffice.
glue and screwed every thing. 3/4 inch
plywood would be a good substitute
for the pine. stuffing from
a craft store makes for some good insulation.

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